PARIS — Contemporary labels presented a plethora of very demure and mindful looks for spring, with smart wardrobe updates while keeping the classic French codes.
Maje and Longchamp were champions of the softer look.
Maje, the French brand designed by Judith Milgrom, called it their take on “audacious femininity.” It was evident in demure fit-and-flare, Basque-waist dresses with Audrey Hepburn appeal in crisp white, while Longchamp’s whites were more structured in cropped eyelet button-downs with coordinating skirts.
Both brands played with bright colors. Pink made its pop with Longchamp, in a picnic-ready check print, a Barbie-colored column with lacing up the side and its horse logo print, as well as a raspberry shift with eyelet detailing.
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Eyelet is in the spotlight for spring, making an appearance in several runway collections as well as its more casual interpretation here. The fabric adds a daintiness to daywear with just a hint of skin without crossing into sexy territory. The shapes and fabrications demonstrate longing for little touches of nostalgia, such as subtle shapes or accessories — Maje’s head wraps were 1960s summer in Italy — without going retro.
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Capri pants were a key shape, again touching on the 1960s silhouette, with other trousers cropped above the ankle.
And if florals are overdone for spring, Longchamp took a more herbal approach with a leaf pattern that played on its leaping horse motif on long dresses with twisted, crisscrossed straps. The longer silhouette added an air of boho to the Longchamp collection, with its flowing dresses, high-necked — and yes, very demure — ruffled collars.
The brands all revisited classic shapes on outerwear, with more volume and gently rounded sleeves, while blazers featured wider lapels and were belted at the waist.
Maje also showed updated workwear in smart blazers with metallic and sequined touches, as well as suit jacket-styled sweatshirts for a casual update, proving that styling is key with the separates on offer.
Denim is moving in a more decorative direction. Maje went all out with full-frontal silver sequins for a club-worthy jean, Longchamp’s playful update on the jean included an innocent baby blue shade with white polka dots, while Sandro’s version was studded with small circular stones.
Sandro’s beach wear was more Martha’s Vineyard, as the brand played up the preppy for its summer collection. There were plenty of striped polo shirts in soft knits, rolled up and layered, giving volume and to shoulders and sleeves. Short flat front shorts and low pockets were a key differentiator while tanks with central motifs à la Loewe’s Anagram were an updated basic at Maje and Sandro.
Sparkly touches also made an appearance on collars, dressing up the everyday trenchcoat with a touch of shine at Sandro. Denim jackets were cropped, zipped and full of pockets with extra studding detail, but the brand toned it down from last season’s bling assault.
As if to emphasize its beach vibe, Sandro filled its headquarters with sand, gently mimicking dunes to go with the soft sand shades that dominated the collection, along with navy and cool blues.
Aigle moved away from the sun and sand and explored the forest with a range of practical looks for the experiential traveler. No beach club here — with a unisex capsule with strong silhouettes full of very mindful details such as reflective patches and waterproof zippers.
There were plenty of pockets, too, with several cargo styles. Aigle goes against the grain each season to play up its outerwear roots. This season that showed in its new patchwork wrap coat that was more blanket than boho, and a cool palette of petrol blue, deep khaki and burgundy that was on trend with the key colors seen on the runways.
Designed by Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Egry and José Lamali’s Études Studio, the brand crafted a full runway presentation featuring models stomping through the lush tropical Jardin du Musée du Quai Branly. The models’ muddy boots demonstrated what the brand is best at.
On the accessories side, the bucket hat shows no signs of being booted to the curb for summer, with the shape being seen in most collections. It was given a raffia twist at both Longchamp and Sandro — there in a black-and-white striped version — as well as the impermeable and big-brimmed update at Aigle.
Raffia is having a major moment not only in hats, but bags too, with variations of totes at Sandro.
Maje added a cargo style to its Miss M handbag line, moving away from fringe and piling on the pockets for more of a utilitarian vibe, while Longchamp went all in on fringe with a layered bag full of movement and swing. Sandro went small, launching the mini-version of its Tangoso hobo in new colors and a canvas version too, and added cute styling for footwear with boat shoes pre-flipped down at the back for a slip-on feel.
There were fewer presentations this season, with some brands opting to hold them off calendar later this month, or falling off the calendar altogether as they seek new positioning following runway shows in February.